none bike related mitsibushi galant 2.5v6 24 valve
- shortassrider
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none bike related mitsibushi galant 2.5v6 24 valve
can someone help , i need a good mechanic that isn't going to charge me the earth to check out and do the repairs to my gallant. i have no compresion so im almost sure the valves are screwd.
unfortunately its a 24 valve joby and im not sure haw many are buggered but in no compresion at front side at all.
best quate so far is £1135 but i cant afford this as i want to get through my bike test and buy a bigger bike this year . anyone out there up for a challenge I can't believe it's not butter! or can put me in touch with someone wiling to do a homer that is reputable . help please
unfortunately its a 24 valve joby and im not sure haw many are buggered but in no compresion at front side at all.
best quate so far is £1135 but i cant afford this as i want to get through my bike test and buy a bigger bike this year . anyone out there up for a challenge I can't believe it's not butter! or can put me in touch with someone wiling to do a homer that is reputable . help please
- dycecooper
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- Backs 400
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It will cost the same if not more to buy a secondhand replacement and have it fitted.blackstorm wrote:Defo sounds like you'd be cheaper bunging in a new engine and keeping yours for spares
Also, you have the issue that the engine thats being bought might be dodgy too. You then have to spend several hours (5-10) swapping ancillaries across..all at £40+ an hour for labour. Then fitting is going to cost too. As I have found, as soon as you start to remove engines you start to find other things that need reparing!
Replacing valves etc is not a big job..all be it there are 24 of them to check ...my V8 takes about 5 hours to replace the cam shaft, push rods and valves.
Don't forget, it might be worn piston rings...is it blowing smoke, worn liners, cracked block or head or leaking cylinder head gasket, ?? If its losing compression down one side as you said I would lean more towards the gasket or cracked head/block.
Also, did you do the compression test on a hot or cold engine? Cold engines will give a low reading.
There is a chap not far from you who races Galants (or it might be his brother in law...they both race anyway)..he lives in Sauchen in one of the big houses that faces the A 944. You will see the cars sitting in the garden..friendly chap..knock on his door and see what he says.
- shortassrider
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Thanks guys , have contacted donald and he was a help although he wont take on the job himself .
Compression was checked from cold and only at the front side as manifold has to be removed to check the back so it hasn't been done.
Backs , if you could give me a number or address for this chap that would be great , failing that i am off thursday so will take the bike up and see if i can find him , weather permitting . any ways , thanks all
Compression was checked from cold and only at the front side as manifold has to be removed to check the back so it hasn't been done.
Backs , if you could give me a number or address for this chap that would be great , failing that i am off thursday so will take the bike up and see if i can find him , weather permitting . any ways , thanks all
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Re: VALVES
and your computers.dude900 wrote:i could come round and beat your engine we a mash hammer ,, worked on the gsxr ,,,,I can't believe it's not butter!
- CBRXX
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It will cost the same if not more to buy a secondhand replacement and have it fitted.Backs 400 wrote:blackstorm wrote:Defo sounds like you'd be cheaper bunging in a new engine and keeping yours for spares
Also, you have the issue that the engine thats being bought might be dodgy too. You then have to spend several hours (5-10) swapping ancillaries across..all at £40+ an hour for labour. Then fitting is going to cost too. As I have found, as soon as you start to remove engines you start to find other things that need reparing!
Replacing valves etc is not a big job..all be it there are 24 of them to check ...my V8 takes about 5 hours to replace the cam shaft, push rods and valves.
quote]
Ok wasn't factoring in actually having to pay someone to do it.
A couple of quick checks first
is the any sludge in the water /oil (burst head gasket)
when turning it over are the water hoses pressurising (burst head gasket)
If no to the first two take the velve cover off should be very easy to take the front one off, have a look in there it should be quite clear if the valves are bent. if you can't tell get some one to turn it over with the spark plugs in but not with the lead attached and check for pressure bolwing out of the valves keep your hands and face well clear though. a bit of oil will be thrown about this is normal. if there is any blow back through the velves it is a head off job
- therenster
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:I can't believe it's not butter! :I can't believe it's not butter! :I can't believe it's not butter! ..i presumed he would want someone to as he was asking for a mechanic in the first post...if that makes sense :I can't believe it's not butter!blackstorm wrote:Ok wasn't factoring in actually having to pay someone to do it.
Better off getting a new car to tell the truth.. Maybe a Golf!!
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Take off your fairing, get the bike warm, them take a long bladed screw driver, or quarter inch metal bar.gsxr400rider wrote: seeing if the tappets are producing the bugging taping sound.
Place one end of it on the cylinder head, and one end against your ear. You will be amazed at what you can hear!! If its tappets you will get a distinct pattern of noise since the tappets will be going up and down at the same time all the time..so a regular "tink" "tink" noise,.
If you dont get this, move the end of the screwdriver/rod to the side of the engine (not sure what side the cam chain is on your bike, but my honda its right rear) and listen again. If its the chain making the rattle you will hear it. Gently rev the bike and listen on the over run as this is when it rattles the most. Its a deffo rattle you hear. There will be some noise anyway, but you should notice it if its loose.
Should hopefully save some time and effort and a gasket
Good luck with the weather!!
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Backs 400 wrote:Take off your fairing, get the bike warm, them take a long bladed screw driver, or quarter inch metal bar.gsxr400rider wrote: seeing if the tappets are producing the bugging taping sound.
Place one end of it on the cylinder head, and one end against your ear. You will be amazed at what you can hear!! If its tappets you will get a distinct pattern of noise since the tappets will be going up and down at the same time all the time..so a regular "tink" "tink" noise,.
If you dont get this, move the end of the screwdriver/rod to the side of the engine (not sure what side the cam chain is on your bike, but my honda its right rear) and listen again. If its the chain making the rattle you will hear it. Gently rev the bike and listen on the over run as this is when it rattles the most. Its a deffo rattle you hear. There will be some noise anyway, but you should notice it if its loose.
Should hopefully save some time and effort and a gasket
Good luck with the weather!!
Cheers.
i have been listening and its a steady tapping that increases in speed the same at the engine speed when i open the throttle up. so i still believe its the tappet's clearance needs adjusting...
weather front still looking good. hope it will be sunny as i'll be working outside on it
P.S sorry shortass for hi-jacking your thread
- shortassrider
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i think it would be best option as i looked on autotrader site last night and i can get the same car only a year older for a mere £1700.Backs 400 wrote::I can't believe it's not butter! :I can't believe it's not butter! :I can't believe it's not butter! ..i presumed he would want someone to as he was asking for a mechanic in the first post...if that makes sense :I can't believe it's not butter!blackstorm wrote:Ok wasn't factoring in actually having to pay someone to do it.
Better off getting a new car to tell the truth.. Maybe a Golf!!
as i still have to mot the car after getting the engine fixed its just not feasible
- IZINBARD
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Have you checked to oil, is there / are there any debris in it, bits of alloy or valve heads, alloy grit like coarse sand. If nothing showing in the oil then it might be just the valves, you could take the head off and have a look, if the damage is not too bad and the pistons are not holed, take it to the head shop down by the harbour and get it cleaned up, or get another head from a scrappy, fit it, Mot and keep or sell the car on. What kind of noises are you getting, Is the timing belt OK on the front bank.
Izz,
Izz,
- shortassrider
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IZINBARD wrote:Have you checked to oil, is there / are there any debris in it, bits of alloy or valve heads, alloy grit like coarse sand. If nothing showing in the oil then it might be just the valves, you could take the head off and have a look, if the damage is not too bad and the pistons are not holed, take it to the head shop down by the harbour and get it cleaned up, or get another head from a scrappy, fit it, Mot and keep or sell the car on. What kind of noises are you getting, Is the timing belt OK on the front bank.
Izz,
It just doesn't work at all :cry
iv started stripping it down now, iv never done this sort of thing before .
unfortunately there is no hanes manual for this car but i did manage to get a manual of sorts on disk . anyone with any tips ie things i should do before removing some part im all ears better still if you know what your doing and your at a loose end or just plane bored silly come along and join in the fun
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