AberdeenBikers

Of course another problem is if its cast. By the looks its made from solid billet making a successful weld more achievable.

Welding Aluminium will reduce its strength by 50% hence why aluminium welds are thick to add 100% more material to keep the original strength.

It can also stress the material around it which could mean that you end up with another crack beside the weld.

If you can remove the part then it might actually be worth your time calling round Aberdeen to see if any local company can duplicate the part for you.

Big Kneed Al (master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian).

The rearsets you posted a link to look like race shift (1 up 5 down) which may not be what you're after.

You can sometimes counter this by inverting the way the shift rods grippy thing (technical term ) fits onto the gearbox input shaft but I don't know if it's doable on your CBR.

The Gilles rearsets Baz posted definitely uses the standard shifting pattern.

Big Kneed Al (master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian) wrote:Welding Aluminium will reduce its strength by 50% hence why aluminium welds are thick to add 100% more material to keep the original strength.
Big limp wristed Big Kneed Al (master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian) (master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian).

Agreed.
It wont look pretty as pretty and don't even consider grinding the weld so it does but if you can't afford the new bit I'd still consider a repair. Thats IMHO of course.

Big Kneed Al (master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian) wrote: If you can remove the part then it might actually be worth your time calling round Aberdeen to see if any local company can duplicate the part for you. Big limp wristed Big Kneed Al (master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian) (master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian).

A good idea. Theres more machinists than good ally welders about. Try and find the grade of aluminium used.

I tried removing it the other night. It wouldn't budge at all. wD40'd it, heated it, tried tightening it then loosening. Even tried standing on the allan key. Didn't budge at all. It's not rusted either, must've been a right strong arm that got it on.

Replace with new, make a new one, welded repair.
Whatever you chose, all options require it removed.

stevemoid wrote:I tried removing it the other night. It wouldn't budge at all. wD40'd it, heated it, tried tightening it then loosening. Even tried standing on the allan key. Didn't budge at all. It's not rusted either, must've been a right strong arm that got it on.

Grab some freeze & release, it works wonders!

Failing that, try extending your leverage with whatever you can find (breaker bar preferably) as you wont be exerting much in the way of torque with a short Allen key.

If that still doesn't work it may be worth giving your break bar a wee bit of persuasion with a micron adjuster to destroy any thread lock that may be in there.

DISCLAIMER: I'm not the best person to take mechanical advice from so it'd be adviseable to run this by a grown up first.

Indeed it will. I may try the gentle allan key and big hammer approach. It is a right bugger, hopefully the barrells worth of wd-40's loosened it up now

And smack the head of the bolt with a hammer first. The shock can often loosen it.
A straight piece of allen key in the head to protect the hex or a pin punch that fits inside the hex.

Have you tried Breaking Point in Torry?

Sounds like whoever fitted them has gone overboard with the thread lock then tightened them up extra tight just to be sure they weren't comming off!

Big Kneed Al (master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian).

stevemoid wrote:I tried removing it the other night. It wouldn't budge at all. wD40'd it, heated it, tried tightening it then loosening. Even tried standing on the allan key. Didn't budge at all. It's not rusted either, must've been a right strong arm that got it on.

Check your pm's dude

steve wrote:

stevemoid wrote:I tried removing it the other night. It wouldn't budge at all. wD40'd it, heated it, tried tightening it then loosening. Even tried standing on the allan key. Didn't budge at all. It's not rusted either, must've been a right strong arm that got it on.

Check your pm's dude

PM replied to. Cheers

I Isn't got a reply from u dude

I've replied again. Fook knows what happened there.

You could braise it potentially. Welding a cast section can be a pain. I will speak to my fabricator/ welder to see if he can sort it for you

Update:

All sorted now. Got it welded today and fitted back on. All is working well.

Thanks everyone for your advice and offers for help. It was all much appreciated.

Cheers
Steve

Glad you got it sorted dude